Make no mistake: designer Prabal Gurung is on the rise. This collection was sleek, polished and tailored, and for fan’s of last season’s vibrant, luscious florals, the prints returned in aquatic blues and gilded yellows for autumn. 

Last week in a preview, designer Prabal Gurung told the New York Times his autumn/winter 2012/13 collection was about a journey from darkness to light; from hell to heaven, and beyond. If this conjures up images of angelic haloed models battling it out with horned red devils, think again: the collection was more representative of a spiritual journey, that personal journey, if you like, that we all have battling with our own demons. 

The result was a collection of structured, architectural silhouettes in black and white (darkness and light) that provided the base for contrasting botanical prints, a dichotomy of moving colours and stationery hues. Glistening detailing and an abundance of accessories (beaded belts, gloves and hats, oh my!) drew comparisons to Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, and the similarities are certainly there: both share a passion for beauty with an intellectual edge and a touch of darkness - humanity, if you will. But Gurung is no Tisci wannabe - a certain sense of whimsy and unguarded freedom rarely seen in Tisci’s own collections was present, thanks to the aforementioned prints and a light-handed use of layered silk chiffon and feathers. Let’s just hope Gurung continues to stay strong to his own identity on this journey of his, because it’s certainly going to get him somewhere. 

/ Vogue.com