Must avoid ‘Posh’ puns at Victoria Beckham autumn/winter 2013/14
Because, y’know, anything this sleek, shiny and impeccably tailored also screams ‘posh’ in a non-Spice-Girl-related way. Go VB.
She’s an uptown city girl at Rag & Bone autumn/winter 2013
Backstage at Holly Fulton
Backstage at Holly Fulton spring/summer 2013 at London Fashion Week
Cherry pink suede + a floral blossom skirt at Pierre Balmain
With spring in her step, literally.
All the pretty birds at Thakoon
The Thakoon aesthetic is nothing if not ladylike. Modest, refined, elegant – these are signatures of designer Thakoon Panichgul’s work the same way sexiness is for Versace, or British humour is for Mulberry. But if this sounds a little plain, think again.
The Thakoon spring/summer 2013 show was a cleverly restrained celebration of embroidered motifs, sheer fabrics and indeed, beauty. Playing with the idea of birds and their feathers, he began the show with an exquisitely lineated dress that drew on the notion of a birdcage to strengthen and give structure to the female body in a way that highlighted rather than restrained, before moving on to several wallpaper-inspired prints that added a sense of early 20th century elegance to his pieces. The shape of a preppy collegiate sweater was re-imagined in delicate organza and floral-print paneling to add a sense of lightness and femininity to an often dowdy shape. The airy prettiness of the first party of the collection petered out as the parade ended with some lackluster silhouettes, but there was no doubt this will be a lovely collection to wear in summer indeed.
Bokeh prints and velvet textures at Rachel Comey
And so it begins: the spring edition of the biannual fashion frenzy collectively referred to as Fashion Month, also known as New York/London/Milan/Paris Fashion Weeks.
Commonly more optimistic and upbeat than its autumn counterpart (perhaps a reflection of the mood of its season?), the world’s most sartorially and genetically gifted have already filed into New York City to both see and be seen; after eight days, they will move on to London and so forth.
New York Fashion Week officially kicked off the festivities with a bang last night in the form of Fashion’s Night Out. But the day before, locally-based designer Rachel Comey showed next season’s collection against the white open space of Pier 59 Studios, featuring bokeh prints and colourful embellishments for a collection that was elegant and relaxed and I-can-picture-that-in-my-wardrobe-already-wearable yet somehow quietly subversive; above all, it was playful, fun and feminine. Summer 2012 may be over but can it be spring 2013 already please?
Manning Cartell part 1: stylist Peter Simon Phillips talks hardcore Latina b*tches
What were you thinking when you styled the collection?
I was… thinking about who the girl was from the collection.
Okay, so who was the girl?
She was inspired by Frida Kahlo, so we kind of made a bit of a hardcore Latina bitch… can I say that? Just a strong type of woman.
A hardcore Latina… I don’t think I’ve ever met one of those.
You haven’t? Well you’ve just met 21 of them.
Dries Van Noten autumn/winter 2012/13
If Milan is the fashion world’s peacock habitat, all vibrancy, flash and glamour, then Paris is perhaps home to the falcon: a subtle, creative breed with a sharp sense of direction.
It’s fitting then, that Dries Van Noten shows at Paris Fashion Week. His subversive sense of style, courtesy of his homeland Belgium, blends beautifully with the city’s understated sartorial aesthetic – and it this skill for blending that shone through in this latest collection. Although the term ‘East-meets-West’ often brings to mind imperialist notions of ‘orientalism’, Van Noten proved that when done based on pure appreciation of aesthetic, cultures can indeed be married for a tasteful, and ultimately glorious, result.
Taking inspiration from traditional Chinese, Korean and Japanese art as seen in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the colour, form and clean lines of Eastern art were appropriated into modern tailored pieces that carried a hint of the military and of masculinity. The Ming vase blues, vibrant oranges and reds and graphic shapes worked surprisingly well with the dusky khakis for an effect that was neither dreary, as khaki can sometimes be on its own, nor excessive, as the colours and prints could have been on their own.
Prints were cut and pasted into graphic pop-art forms, but balanced with black and white. Indeed, Van Noten expertly blended Asian iconography with wit and militant sophistication. The resulting collection was wearable and simply beautiful. Bold but not flashy, intellectual but not erudite, this collection is surely an example of what an acute sense of design, self and culture can result in.
Prada autumn/winter 2012/13
Love, love, love. Okay, so there might be a slight semblance of an aliens-with-two-toned-hair-chuck-on-some-cowboy-clothes story here (why does the cowboy reference actually conjure images of Brad Pitt pulling up at the petrol station in Thelma & Louise?) but I still think this is only further evidence of the genius of Miuccia Prada.