It was Bordeaux-boy Olivier Rousteing’s second season at the helm of Balmain, and already, he is evolving from predecessor Christophe Decarnin’s wildly sexed-up rocker chic to create an aesthetic that also draws influences from couture techniques and ideologies.

The result was a collection that, although fairly cohesive, still had moments that were better than others. Marrying a sort of Byzantine excessiveness with tailored, androgynous shapes resulted in Karlie Kloss looking boss in a fitted sweater and gilded pants, and other models wearing jackets that, well, looked like tanks. Michelin Man-padded tanks. And no woman wants to look like that (although it would be very practical padding).

Nadja Bender, Anna Selezneva, Karlie Kloss looking incredibly hot, Anna Selezneva again and Kasia Struss X Balmain autumn/winter 2012/13 at Paris Fashion Week / vogue.com

Kasia Struss, Sigrid Agren, Candice Swanepoel, Florence Welch of Florence and the Machine X Chanel / Yannis Vlamos X GoRunway.com via vogue.com

Freja Beha Erichsen, Maud Welzen, Valerija Kelava, Mirte Maas, Kasia Struss X Lanvin / vogue.com

Kati Nescher, Kasia Struss, Romee Strijd, Anais Pouliot, Ginta Lapina X Prada / Barbara Anastacio X Dazed Digital

Kati Nescher, Kasia Struss, Ruby Aldridge, Iris Egbers X Dries Van Noten / Yannis Vlamos X GoRunway.com via vogue.com